切格瓦拉的革命精神,在販賣紀念品攤位上熱血沸騰….
老漁夫桑蒂耶哥,住在海明威永遠的511號房;
北京奧運奪銀的棒球隊,是抽古巴雪茄奮發圖強的嗎?
沒有卡斯楚的哈瓦那,所有的故事都在此發生。或者,等著被發生……

棒球線民壯壯

一顆顆嶄新的棒球,被運進訓練中心,剛從北京奧運奪銀牌回來的喜悅,還迷漫在古巴棒球訓練營;一顆我們姑且叫它”壯壯”的棒球,滿懷心事的躺在盒子裏,它是台灣棒球迷的線民,準備竊取戰勝的祕密。

古巴的黑色條件

加勒比海上的最大的島國 古巴,是拉丁美洲唯一的共產主義國家。強人卡斯楚長達49年的統治,為她罩上一層神秘面紗。

哈瓦那街上,噴著黑煙的美國古董車穿梭在廣場、博物館與百年老建築間,構成一幅復古懷舊的畫面。有趣的是,古巴一向與美國關係冷淡,不僅禁止美國人入境,甚至不准旅客由美國入境。之所以會有這麼多美國車,是因為1962年美國對古巴採取嚴厲的經濟制裁禁運政策後,卡斯楚政府下令禁止全國現有汽車離境,於是美國人走了,車子卻這樣留了下來。雪茄、音樂與一輛輛美國的雪佛蘭,就成了古巴給人的標準刻板印象,封閉的共產主義,反倒成了一種黑色魔力,用熱情的騷莎Salsa勾引世人。


戰地記者與革命烈士:古巴有反骨的因子?!

當過戰地記者的海明威,是古巴反美情結的另一個矛盾。這位偉大的美國作家,在古巴度過他三分之一的人生。許多舉世聞名的鉅作如「老人與海」、「流動的饗宴」…等,都是他在古巴完成的。他熱愛古巴,古巴人也視他如父:他生前愛喝的雞尾酒Mojito,已經成為國飲;在古巴最後22年的居所「維西亞小山莊」,現在則是海明威博物館;而Ambos Mundos飯店裡他住過的511號房,也被特地保留下來,成為海明威永遠的房間。

堅持走在革命道路上的切格瓦拉,選擇古巴作為他革命大業的第一站。他受廣大人民的支持,成為古巴永遠的國家英雄,勇於實踐心中烏托邦的熱血精神,也成為年輕人追求夢想的典範。一直到現在,切格瓦拉的身影還高高懸掛在哈瓦那的革命廣場上,紀念品攤位上,印有其頭像的各式物件,也是全年暢銷商品。

歌舞與萊姆的甜味國度

1492年哥倫布發現古巴以後,這裡很快地被發展成世上最大的蔗糖產區,龐大利益驅使古巴成為西班牙的殖民地。非洲黑奴、南美土著被引進,造成如今多元的混血後裔。古巴也有著「世界糖罐」的稱號。

甘蔗是釀造萊姆酒的原料,古巴製作萊姆酒的歷史已有數百年之久。現在是全世界最重要的萊姆酒產地,哈瓦那也因此成為全世界最知名的萊姆酒中心。街頭酒吧林立,從前海明威、智利詩人聶魯達(Pablo Neruda)等幾位諾貝爾文學得主便常醉戀哈瓦那酒吧。

儘管國民所得年平均不到1500美金,生活相當貧瘠。但古巴人能忍受物資匱乏,唯獨無法忍受沒有歌舞,走在哈瓦那,整個舊城區就是一個老唱機,無論晨昏,到處都樂師在餐廳咖啡館與街邊演奏。晚上的酒吧裡,Salsa,更燃亮了加勒比海的夜。

共產主義造就了一頁又一頁古巴的傳奇。物質上的古巴也許貧乏,精神上卻有著絕對的富裕。

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